September 16, 2024
Irish designer Simone Rocha made her return to the third day of London Fashion Week with a boundary-pushing collection that defied traditional fashion norms. Renowned for her exploration of traditional gender roles, Rocha presented a borderless runway that seemed to blossom with Carnation flowers, adding to the intrigue of her SS25 collection.
To those familiar with Rocha's past work, the latest collection should not come as a surprise. The designer constantly experiments with contrasting styles and this season's offerings saw masculine and feminine styles unite in perfect harmony with her signature darker undertones. Building upon the momentum gained from completing her Victorian-themed trilogy in February, Rocha now embarked on uncharted territory for Spring/Summer 2025.
The ensuing showcase of innovative silhouettes appeared to be both contradictory and exciting all at once, featuring the likes of sparkly rhinestone-encrusted Crocs paired with delicate ballerina dresses alongside self-proclaimed 'incomplete' designs that demanded attention. Rocha shed light on her thoughts behind the series, which dwelled on the elusive concept of perfection and her deep dive into an abstruse inner world that perhaps reflects a vision - or the lack thereof - of absolute completeness.
The SS25 collection was presented in several disparate parts that captured the mind of the beholder, divided into sections like 'Fear, Fun, Control' and the all-too-familiar battle between the sexes. This season's showcase also introduced us to a plethora of unfinished, in-the-works pieces, modeled on half-dressed individuals who storm down the catwalk wearing only beautifully adorned coats and delicate layers. Upon inspection, intricate ensemble details unfold before one's eyes - such eye-catching inclusions ranging in theme and texture include semi-frilled bodysuits alongside ruffled flared kiltlets, cutaway zip-up flailing displays revealing translucent colored silk underclothing items.
One could possibly consider this bold, albeit unconventional approach as an odd form of perfection - presenting the wearer's clothing with subtle suggestions and unfinished fragments that reflect on the reality that, at times, beauty draws roots from in incompleteness. Not to be overlooked also are the oversized knee socks accentuating men's thick cut tracksuits which seemed to pick up momentum and join the fashion show spectacle featuring stringy leather vests further more.
Rounding off these striking motifs of asymmetrical cut lace trim layered lace ballerins silk and cotton bra design staples are men's more colorful accessories like tasselled flowered jackets alongside big rose rucksacks adorned back sequin pink thick thread denims full pleats to wear all alike across both spectrums.
Further key developments from Rocha's Spring 2025 collection include bold all-pink color block arrangements featuring large scale flowers across semi-skin-colored tights paired with layered silk gowns embedded side floral bouquet supports while some accompanying tulle flower basket designs formed interesting combinations of translucent roses set amongst sheer hued skin wear.
The showcase also features Rocha's third edition Crocs model, showcasing wide ranging designs including thick stacked block-heeled sandals, soft ruched satin toed ballet flats in addition to the array of slip-on flats showcased across four varnished colors consisting of muted pink, black, cream, as well an ultra-exclusive flat in glitter shades for an unparalleled event look.
As the collection comes to a final close, eager fashion onlookers may scan through the provided images in the gallery space above, while keeping vigilant watch on Hypebeast this Summer for the latest on the goings on at London Fashion Week.
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